Crochet Bunny in Overalls: An Amigurumi Doll Pattern With a Tiny Wardrobe

What This Crochet Bunny in Overalls Actually Is

A crochet bunny in overalls is a chibi-proportioned amigurumi doll: an oversized round head, a compact body, slim limbs, and two upright ears, dressed in a small crocheted outfit. Nothing is sewn on afterward except the ears, accessory, and outfit.

• Body: feet-first — legs, body, arms joined live, head closed with a needle cinch.
• Arms: flat-topped “hands,” attached at body round 10 through both layers, zero sewing.
• Face: embroidered eyes on round 17, 7–8 sts apart, cross mouth one row below.
• Outfit: blue overalls — 28-st waistband, two 18-st trouser legs, a 6-st bib, chain-17 crossed straps.
• Accessories: tomato headband with a leaf, or gray headphones.

This suits a confident beginner: if you know the magic ring, single crochet, increases, and decreases, everything else is a new combination of those moves. The trickiest moment gets its own diagram below.

Materials, Tools & What Each Yarn Colour Is For

Nothing here is exotic: one main colour, a scrap of blue, red or gray for your accessory, black for the face. Sport or DK keeps the bunny in the 12–15 cm range from the sizing section below; see the Craft Yarn Council’s yarn weight standards if unclear.

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Abbreviations & the One New Technique

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The one new move is crocheting through two layers at once, for the arms in round 10 and each trouser leg’s chain bridge: hold a flattened piece against the fabric and hook through both. Fiddly once, automatic by the second arm.

How Big Your Crochet Bunny Will Turn Out

This pattern has no stated gauge, so finished size follows yarn weight and hook choice.

1. Work the first arm through round 8, lay it flat, and measure ring tip to folded edge; compare to 4 cm, roughly what sport-DK on a 2.5–3 mm hook gives.
2. Size the hook, not the stitch counts, if more than 15% off — changing counts breaks the join math later.

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How the Whole Bunny Goes Together

Two legs join into one oval, the body works up from it, arms crochet on live, and a head closes the piece at the top.

Arms First: Make 2 Flat-Topped Hands

Each arm starts as a tiny cup and ends with a flattened top — that flat edge sits flush against the body later, so resist stuffing it.

1. R1: 8 sc in mr [8].
2. R2: (3 sc, inc) x 2 [10].
3. R3–R8: 10 sc in each round [10].
4. Close the top: flatten so front and back edges meet, work 5 sc through both, crocheting opposite stitches together. Fasten off, weave in the tail.
5. Repeat for the second hand and set both aside — they return at body round 10.

Legs & Feet: Make 2, Rotated to Match

The legs begin wide at the foot, narrow at the ankle across two decrease rounds, then run straight. The extra 3 sc at the end of round 6 rotates the seam so both feet point the same way once joined.

1. R1: 8 sc in mr [8].
2. R2: 8 inc [16].
3. R3: 16 sc [16].
4. R4: 4 sc, 4 dec, 4 sc [12].
5. R5: 4 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc [10].
6. R6: 10 sc [10], then work 3 more sc and cut the yarn on the first leg.
7. Second leg: repeat R1–R6 plus the 3 extra sc, but do not cut the yarn — you need it live for the join.

The Join: Turning Two Legs Into One 22-Stitch Body

Two separate tubes become one oval with a tiny chain bridge between them. Keep both feet pointing the same direction and the count lands exactly on 22.

1. Find the join point: on the first (cut) leg, count back 6 sc from the last stitch and mark that spot.
2. Ch 1 on the live second leg — this becomes the bridge.
3. 10 sc around the first leg from the counted point, 1 sc into the bridge’s upper loop.
4. 10 sc around the second leg, 1 sc into the bridge’s lower loop to close the oval [22].

Body, Rounds 2–9

1. R2: (10 sc, inc) x 2 [24].
2. R3: (5 sc, inc) x 4 [28].
3. R4–R8: 28 sc in each round [28]. Add stuffing as the body firms up.
4. R9: (5 sc, dec) x 4 [24].

Attaching the Arms Live in Round 10

Round 10 is the no-sew trick: hold a flattened hand against the body wall and work each stitch through both layers, so the arm becomes part of the fabric.

1. R10: 4 sc, then 4 sc through the first hand and the body together, 8 sc across the back, then 4 sc through the second hand and the body, 4 sc [24].
2. R11: (2 sc, dec) x 6 [18].

The Head: Rounds 12–25

A classic amigurumi sphere: a burst of increases, a long even stretch, then staged decreases. Stuff it firmly — it is the part people squeeze first.

1. R12: 18 inc [36].
2. R13: (8 sc, inc) x 4 [40].
3. R14–R21: 40 sc in each round, 8 rounds total [40].
4. R22: (3 sc, dec) x 8 [32].
5. R23: (1 sc, dec, 1 sc) x 8 [24].
6. Stuff the head firmly now, shaping it round with your fingers.
7. R24: (1 sc, dec) x 8 [16].
8. R25: 8 dec [8].
9. Close: cut a long tail, weave through the front loops of the last 8 stitches, pull tight and knot inside. Bury the tail.

Ears, Face & the Overalls

Ears (make 2)

1. R1: 8 sc in mr [8].
2. R2: (1 sc, inc) x 4 [12].
3. R3–R9: 12 sc in each round [12].
4. Finish: flatten slightly, a pinch of stuffing if desired, fasten off with a long tail. Repeat for ear two.

Embroidering the face

1. Eyes: round 17, 7–8 sc apart. Two or three short vertical stitches per eye read as round dots.
2. Mouth: one row below, centered, a small cross.
3. Finish: carry the needle between features, bury the knots inside.

Overalls: waistband, trouser legs, bib & straps

Worked waist down, then back up for the bib and straps.

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Bib & straps

1. Find the middle 6 sc on the waistband front — that is the bib.
2. Bib R1: ch 1, 6 sc [6]. R2–R3: ch 1, turn, 6 sc [6].
3. Straps row: 3 sc, ch 17, 16 sc back, 6 sc across the bib top, ch 17, 16 sc, 3 sc. Fasten off.
4. Dress the bunny, cross the straps at the back and sew down.

Choose an Accessory: Tomato Headband, Leaf, or Headphones

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Troubleshooting, Variations & Care

Most problems with this crochet bunny with clothes trace back here:

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Easy variations: skip the overalls for a plain bunny; add a shoulder-blade loop before closing the body for a bag charm; or make both accessories from scrap yarn.

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